Wednesday, 3 April 2013

12/13 Winter Season Part 2 - Helvellyn, Sharp Edge and Great End

So after a lazy month and a very lazy Christmas, The snow returned and I bought some new winter boots so it was time to get back out there. 

Helvellyn via Striding Edge - 19.01.13



This trip is becoming a bit of an annual event for me, and early season trip up the lake district classic route of Striding Edge to Helvellyn summit and descend via Swirral Edge. Two years on the run I made the trip with Dave Hughs and Richard Barlow. Dave has a vast mountaineering experience so I use this trip to gain as much advice from his as I can. On this particular day, Richard was out GoPro photographer and we were also joined by Elliott Standfield.








It was a pretty standard trip up with some atmospheric clouds going on, we made our way along Striding Edge and there was a few inches of fresh snow but nothing to warrant sharp pointy things on our feet. As with every trip along this route, we encountered impatient walkers at the bad step.

Striding
As we approached the head wall we saw there wasn't much snow unlike last year when it was coated in a thick layer of hard nevé. At the summit we encountered a few groups of climbers topping out, but I cant imagine it would have been much fun given the powdery early season conditions. The strong wind blasted snow in my eyes which promoted me to get out the goggles to protect my contact lenses.

Swirral
The decent of Swirral had the best snow of the day and it was starting to get into condition. We had another good day in the mountains and Richard took some awesome photos. 


Sharp Edge - 26.01.13 


Myself and Elliott had another early start and headed up the M6 to Scales to make an ascent up Blencathra via Sharp edge. I knew this was a little more full on that Striding edge so as soon as I caught a glimps of its steep head wall I felt a little nervous. When we set of walking we saw a skier on the side of the fell. The snow was pretty Fresh and was waist deep at Scales Beck as we approached the tarn. We stopped at the Tarn for a quick brew and a chat to a couple of other walkers.




We made our ascent as the third group in line. The condition was bad, fresh powder made it very slippery and crampons were necessary to grip the rock. About a third of the was along, the second group had decided to turn back as the first group had decided to rope up. The made them nervous and made me nervous too, they seemed to be uncomfortable with where they were so on realising this I felt betted and we decided to solo past them. At this point I had a little slip but my axe gripped a crack in the rock and stopped me falling into the gulley bellow, Twitchy bum moment!
At the Top of the Head Wall
By time we got to the head wall the two nervous roped climbers caused a bottle neck which soon caught up with us and we encountered as few impatient people who may as well have just stood on my hands. We decided to take our time take in the views and enjoy it instead of push our way past other walkers in dangerous conditions.
Heading For the Summit
We made our was to Blencathra summit, encountering more waist deep snow and after a sandwich, we made our decent away from the crowds via the ridge of Gategill Fell, when the ridge ran out we resorted to sledging down to the bottom and then made our way to the pub.
Above Gategill Fell Ridge

Great End - 09.02.13


The previous week much of the snow had gone and decided to do something different so we had a go at the Via Ferrata at Honister Slate mine, good fun though a little tame so I think we need to head to the Dolomites. The days following brought some more snow and a good bit of freeze thaw action. On this Saturday myself and Elliott headed to Seathwaite for and ascent up Great End via Cust's Gully. Parking up at Seathwaite there were a lot of cars but didn't see many people on the way up, In fact we didn't see any one else until we go on the side of Great End. Heading up there was no snow until about 200m then hit deep snow around 400m.

Me on the first step


















Heading up the side of great end to the gully we noticed a queue of three groups of climbers on Window gulley. At the bottom of Custs we bumbed into two of the Instructors from Blackpool Climbing wall (our local centre). After a chat we headed to the start of Cust's and they headed for One Pitch Gully round to the left of Cust's.
Elliott on Cust's
The snow was deep and slippery and the first big step to the start of Cust's that we struggle with last year was not there and just a snow slope. This was Elliott's First Gully so I let him lead, the snow start of soft and soon firmed up to pretty good nevé. There was that much snow that we simply stepped over the step under the chock stone; last year we had to crawl under the slab at the step!
Me on Cust's
After topping out we descended round the east keeping close to the crag and back round the front. We followed a nice traverse with crag on our left a steep drop to the right which I spotted as out decent route on the way up. With plenty of time left we decided to make another ascent, this time with me leading and we really started to feel it!
Elliott
This time we descended down the main path and found a safe slop which meant it was time to get the orange safety bags out and go sledging!



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